Nestled among Deodar and pine trees, with the gushing River Beas flowing alongside, view of snow-capped peaks in front, the colorful shops along the winding lanes, the whipping coffee and baking smell from the cafes is what defines a quaint little town – Old Manali of Himachal Pradesh, India.
Old Manali – Don’t go by the world OLD, here. The place is not at all an old town. Indeed, we feel it is full of life and much more happening than the main Manali. It is not a honeymoon destination but a Hippie Land and the abode of Backpackers. The place has a traditional Himachali fell and interestingly, this trail is also listed under the Banana Pancake Trail along with Kasol, Jaipur, Goa, Bangkok, Phuket, etc.
You might be thinking we are biased towards old Manali and actually, we are. The place is famous among weed and other notorious drug lovers but we have our own reasons to love it. But before reading further, we suggest you find a hotel in Manali, as the place is always loaded with tourists/ travelers and backpackers.
Reasons why we love Old Manali
1. Feel of fresh air, water, and Spirituality
Cross the bridge over River Beas, separating Old and Main Manali, the cool breeze and spirituality of Old Manali will engulf you. The fresh air will open up your senses and the flowing River will act as music to mind and soul. The water here is utterly pure because it’s coming directly from the glaciers.
We feel, the place is beautiful in all seasons but its heaven in Monsoon. During Monsoons, clouds engulf you from all sides, mist settles down on your clothes and hair. Rain starts pouring in no time, leaving you completely drenched, and everything gets super clean and fresh.
2. Nature Walk
There are plenty of nature trails in Old Manali and each one is unique. Start walking on any, and you will be amazed by the beauty of nature here. The place makes you feel completely in the lap of nature and sometimes accidentally you hover to discover the hidden or secret trails.
This small town also serves as a base for the adventure freaks and trekkers. Multiple treks start from here ranging from easy to intermediate to long. To name, few of them are – Trek to Lahaul Spiti Valley, Pin Valley, Chandratal, Kheerganga, Kasol, etc.
3. Good Food and Cafes
Old Manali is also a hub for cafes and delicious food. They serve cuisines from Himachali to Italian to Chinese and Israeli. The cooks of each of these cafes have honed their skills and become masters by learning from the backpackers and visitors.
Till day, we have tried a variety of food from different cafes and Bakers and honestly, none has disappointed us. But still, the favorite from our list is German Bakers for fresh cakes, pastries, pies and coffee and Café 1947, Lazy Dog for food. And yes! the fresh Trout fish is a must-try. Eat and you will be in heaven. Okay Jokes apart, after eating Trout here, we have stopped liking it anywhere else.
Some of the cafes in the town too, have books and games sections to make up your day.
4. Music and Parties
If you are one like us, who loves sipping drinks with beautiful views and music, then Old Manali is a place for you. The cafes play trance, Reggae, romantic songs, and some have Live Bands too. One can spend their entire day here. During our last visit, we found a cafe playing Punjabi numbers and people dancing on it. So, feel the scene is really changing here too.
Apart from the regular Music and parties, the Shiva Squad festival is held here for psychedelic music and natural scenic beauty lovers. The festival is spread over for two days and the dates for this year i.e 2018 are from 25 to 27th September.
5. Love for colorful Handicrafts and quirky stuff
Just as you enter the town, the Boho vibes start surrounding you. The colorful lined shops and the smiling owners on the winding roads welcome you. They sell local handicrafts, woolen stuff, funky jewelry, sling bags, dream catchers, Tibetan Prayer Flags, all types of Chillums, Punk T-shirts and other quirky stuff at quite a reasonable price, which perfectly fits the needs of Backpackers.
There are also some dreadlock (Jata) and tattoo makers sitting outside the shops. So, get yourself done one, for some cool Hippie look.
These are a few of the reasons for our bias attitude towards this old Quaint town. Truly, we can never get bored of it. What do you feel now?
How to Reach Old Manali
Manali lies 537 kilometers from Delhi and can be reached by direct Volvo Bus (Redbus), Cab or by air. The nearest airport is at Bhuntar, i.e. 50 Kilometers from Manali. From there, one can hire a cab or bus to Manali. Further to Old Manali, one can hire a Tuk Tuk (Auto-rickshaw) or walk for about 20 minutes and cross the bridge.
Manali is beautiful in all seasons but we suggest exploring it during offseason. Monsoon is one such off-season when hotels are quite cheap, and you have the whole place to yourself. Although be careful with the landslides.
Summers: March – June; Monsoons: July – September; Winters: November – February
In September the weather is quite pleasant with bit chilliness, especially during the morning and evenings.
Important Tip
Old Manali has a hippie culture but we request you to be a responsible traveler and citizen. Don’t create nonsense and respect the locals and their culture. Don’t litter and use the installed bins.
Some of the places are always your dream destinations; even after knowing that they are well connected by roads but still cut out from the rest of the world. Leh Ladakh road trip from Delhi was one of our dreams. We were trying to accomplish this 3500 km road trip dream for three years and finally, it happened in 2017.
The each landscape, mountain, road, stream throughout the road trip is unique and has its own tale. So, now do we have?
Starting with Julley! Joolay! Julley from Ladakh- the land of high passes is a mesmerizing, indeed a magical word to say Hi, Hello, Namaste, Welcome and goodbye. It brings a smile whenever we say it. Anyways we have lots to talk about this epic road trip; starting with the itinerary or travel guide for Leh Ladakh road trip.
13 days Itinerary for Leh Ladakh road trip
There are two routes to reach Leh – one from Manali and another from Srinagar, Sonamarg. We did the circuit route, starting from Jammu to Leh and back via old Manali. So, we will be talking about the 13 days guide on it.
Day 1 (Delhi – Jammu)
Start from Delhi around 6-7 am and try to cover the distance till Jammu.
The condition of roads: Excellent; National Highway with multiple tolls. The whole route is plains.
Places to explore on the way: Nothing much except the huge swaying paddy field of Punjab.
Day 2 (Jammu – Srinagar- Sonamarg)
Start from Jammu around 7 am to reach Srinagar or Sonamarg. We planned to stay at Sonamarg instead of Srinagar because of the unrest going in Srinagar from the past few days.
Condition of roads: Excellent; National Highway with tolls, plain as well as hilly drive
Tunnels: India’s longest 9 Km tunnel; Chenani – Nashri (also known as Patnitop tunnel) has got opened in 2017 itself and it has cut short the total distance by 41 km. Another, 3 km long Jawahar Tunnel; also known as Banihal Tunnel.
In the morning get up early to see the first sun rays striking the mountain peaks of Sonamarg, roam and feel its golden meadows (the real Kashmir). And leave for Kargil by 10 -11 am.
Total Time: 3 -4 hrs direct-drive whereas 6-7 hrs with sightseeing
Condition of roads: Excellent roads but few broken patches too
Passes: Zoji La Pass at 11,575 feet which connects Kashmir and Ladakh Valley
Places to explore on the way: Zojila Pass, Zero Point, Baltal from where Amarnath yatra begins, Drass war memorial, Elephant ridge, view of Tiger Hill, Kargil War Memorial and apricot plantations
Zero Point at ZojiLa
Day 4(Kargil- Lamayuru – Leh)
Leave from Kargil around 9 am to have full time for sightseeing on the way.
The condition of roads: Continuous ascent and descents; good roads with few broken patches in between.
Passes: Namika La at an altitude of 12139 feet and Fotu La pass at an altitude of 13,478 feet
Places to explore on the way: At Mulbekh, the future Buddha statue dating back to the 1st century, Fotu La Pass, the ruins of Chiktan Fort; at Lamayuru the old Lamayuru monastery and moon lands, Gurdwara Pathar Sahib at Nimu, the magnetic hill and confluence of Indus – Zanskar River.
In between the journey there are several attractions to explore on Srinagar Leh Highway. Don’t miss them!
Day 5 & Day 6: (Leh)
Take rest, get acclimatized, and explore the city of Lamas.
Places to explore: Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Hall of fame; Hemis monastery (45 km from Leh); and Leh market. Take a permit from the DC office to further explore Nubra Valley and Pangong Lake.
The condition of roads: Completely broken patch of 20 km at and around Khardung La till South Pullu.
Passes: Khardung La, the highest motorable road and pass at an altitude of 18380 feet
Places to explore on the way: Khardungla Pass, Diskit Monastery; the tallest statue of Maitreya Buddha and Hunder Sand dunes.
Hunder; Nubra Valley
Day 8 (Hunder – Pangong Tso)
There are two routes to reach Pangong Lake from Khalsar (33 Km from Hunder); one via Shyok and another via Leh. Check with the BRO (Border roads organization) or locals if the route from Shyok is accessible or not. During our travel, there was a major landslide on the Shyok way, so we had to travel all the way from Khardung La again to reach Pangong Tso.
Total Distance: 240 Km via Shyok and 351 km via Leh
Total Time: 8 hrs via Shyok and 11 – 12 hrs via Leh
The condition of roads: The roads are bad at and around Kardungla. Gushing streams; and the paved road is on the way to Pangong from Changla whereas for the other route via Shyok; local taxi driver narrated that the route has many streams flowing on the road itself and sometimes it gets impossible to judge the depth and condition of the road.
Passes: Kardungla Pass at 18380 feet and Chang La pass at 17590 feet
Places to explore on the way: Pangong Lake, Chang La pass, Shyok River, ruins of Shey Palace, Thiksey monastery, Hemis monastery.
The condition of roads: Gravel and dirt tracks with streams flowing in between and you can drive maximum at a speed of 20-30 km/hr.
Places to explore on the way: Kaygar Tso, Tso Moriri, Chushul pass, Rezang La, Tsaka La, Namashang La and straight roads traversing among the barren mountains
The condition of roads: Gravel and dirt tracks, enclosed amidst the mountains. One can drive max at a speed of 20-30 km/hr (which can be irritating after a span). The road at Tso Kar village is metalled, a well-made road.
Places to explore on the way: Kaygar Tso, Puga hot springs, Polo KongKa La, and Salt deposits around Tso Kar Lake.
Kyagar Tso
Day 11 (Tso Kar – Keylong)
Start early from Tso Kar to reach Keylong by evening and trust me this is the most scenic ride.
Condition of roads: From Tso Kar to Manali Leh highway dirt road whereas afterward excellent paved roads till Pang, then continuous ascents, and descents with paved as well as dirt road patches, and too have to cross the famous Gata loops i.e. 21 loops within 6.5 kilometers
Passes: Lachalung La at an altitude of 16,616 feet, Lakeela at 15547 feet and BaraLacha at 16,040 feet
Places to explore on the way: Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal, Gata loops, Lachalung, Lakeela, and Baralacha pass
Gata Loops (21 loops in 6.5 km)
Day 12 (Keylong – Manali)
The Keylong to Manali route is lush green and it’s just a 4-5 hr drive if the ascent to Rohtang pass is in good shape.
The condition of roads: From Keylong to Sissu excellent paved roads, then continuous bad road while the ascent of Rohtang pass and the good road while descents. Few gushing water streams in-between the roads.
Passes: Rohtang pass at an altitude of 13,050 feet
Places to explore on the way: Lots of seasonal waterfalls; Tourist Sissu village, Rohtang Pass, Old Manali, and lots of apple orchards. Note: You don’t need Rohtang Pass Permit while coming back from Leh to Manali. Also, shop the famous Bhuttico Kullu Shawls & Accessories known as the Gift of Kullu Valley.
Old Manali Bridge
Day 13 (Manali – Delhi)
It is always tough to say goodbye to the valleys and it was toughest for Leh Ladakh road trip. The last day is going to be a long hectic drive day.
Places to explore on the way: Mandi; Chandigarh and delicious Punjabi food at Dhabas.
On the way to Mandi
Certain important Points for Leh Ladakh Road Trip
All these routes can be covered in a lesser time than mentioned, but we suggest stopping and taking the enthralling views.
There is neither a hurry to rush and reach anywhere in the valley, so drive slowly.
Listen to the locals for advice as they know the valleys better than a traveler.
Don’t drive at night as first you will miss the views and it is really risky. And if your vehicle breaks down there is nobody to help around for miles.
Spend a day or two at Leh, to get acclimatized for the higher altitudes.
Prepare yourself for AMS (Acute mountain sickness) which can vary just from a mild headache to breathlessness. If one is feeling severe restlessness, look for immediate help at the nearest shack or with BRO.
For certain areas in the valley, you need to take the Inner Line Permit.
Always have a day or two buffers in the Leh Ladakh road trip, as one never knows neither can predict the present and future situation of roads and landslides here.
Get your vehicles fuelled up at Leh as the next fuel station is available at Tandi, 365 km from Keylong.
For covering Tso Moriri and white Lake Tso Kar on the way from Pangong Lake, do carry extra fuel; at least 20 liters or even more.
If you are planning to go to Tso Kar directly from Pangong lake (which is 7-8 hrs journey), on the way you will cross Taglang La which is the world’s second-highest pass at an altitude 17,582 feet. Taglang La
Drink lots of water and say complete no to drinks while driving and during your whole Leh Ladakh road trip. This is for the safety as well as helps to get acclimatized
Don’t litter around in the valley.
The idea of Leh Ladakh road trip itself means being in the lap of nature; away from the daily hustle-bustle and social media. We simply mean that here there is no network. If you want to be in continuous touch with your family and friends do carry a BSNL sim.
ATM services are available at Srinagar, Leh and then at Keylong. So carry enough cash during your Leh Ladakh road trip and keep some as a buffer.
There are a lot of options for accommodations. Luckily, we got nice accommodation everywhere without booking but we recommend to have pre-bookings for the Leh Ladakh road trip.
In between, there are multiple shacks to enjoy Maggi, tea, coffee, paranthas, omelet, etc. These shacks do provide homestays too at very reasonable rates.
There are washrooms at the shacks for nature’s call and one needs to shell 5 -10 Rs each time.
This is just the start of our Leh Ladakh road trip travel series. Stay tuned to know and see more in detail.
You might be interested in checking our other series of Ladakh too:
I don’t know how special the falling snowflakes are to you but for me, that whole moment is extremely thrilling. I love witnessing and capturing how the whole colored town gets painted in white color in minutes. It looks so heavenly. I can sit and gaze at the snowfall for hours. They seem like cotton candies of various sizes. Anyways, if you too feel the same and want to experience the live snowfall, then January and February are the right months to rush to satisfy your eyes and soul. And here are the five winter destinations to experience snowfall in Himachal.
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Shimla – Kufri – Chail
Shimla, the queen of Himachal is a colonial town. In winters the slanting roofs of buildings get covered in snow sheets and dancing deodars around it give a Paradise feel. The whole scene is a perfect postcard picture. Kufri a small hill town lies 18 km ahead and it is a famous skiing hotspot in winters. Chail known for its quietness and birds lies further 27 km to Kufri. In winters during snowfall, there is only snow, greenery and the misty surroundings engulfing the whole environment.
Expected Lowest Temperature: -2 to 0 degree Celsius
What to do: Play and walk-in snowfall, build snowmen, enjoy snow games like skating, skiing, and party with bonfires
Difficulties you may face: Water shortage, power trips, road blocks, traffic jams
Special: Winter Sports festival happens around February in Kufri
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Manali – Solang Valley
The Manali town is surrounded by snow clad mountains on one side and Beas River on the other It is beautiful during all the months and imagines how beautiful it will be in extreme winters (December, January, and February) when there is fresh snow with a fluffy texture. Everything gets white, more beautiful, and picturesque. The landscapes get more enhanced and are clearly demarcated.
Source – www.snow-forecast.com
The Solang valley lies 14 km ahead of Manali and is famous among tourists and travelers for ice skating, skiing, and zorbing. The cable car from Solang valley is a beautiful ride and it takes you to the snow point.
Expected Lowest Temperature: -6 to -8degree Celsius
What to do: Enjoy snow games, click lots of pictures, visit old Manali restaurants and party all night
Difficulties you may face during snowfall in Himachal: Water shortage, power trips, roadblocks, traffic jams and high chances of slipping on ice. So carry snowshoes or you can rent it from there.
Source – www.tourism-of-india.com
Haripur Dhar
Haripur Dhar is a small town situated on a ridge overlooking deep valley in Sirmour district of Himachal Pradesh. It is quiet, serene and not a common tourist destination. The temperature during summers in Haripur Dhar varies from 0 to 5 degree Celsius and in winters it is completely snowing. There are awesome views of snow clad mountains from the ridge top.
Expected Lowest Temperature: less than 0 and can go up to -6 degree Celsius
What to do: Leisure walks, photo shoot mesmerizing views and visit Maa Bhangayani Temple
Difficulties you may face: roadblocks due to excessive snowfall, extreme cold, power cuts and water shortage
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Dharamshala – Mcleodganj
The Mcleodganj located at an altitude of 1700 meters is a home to Dalai Lamas and has a jumbled mix of shops, restaurants, hotels, and cafes strewn along the steep winding alleyway. It lies in the Dauladhar range, 10 km ahead of Dharamshala. Mcleodganj receives a good amount of snowfall in Himachal during winters in January and February. The environment is chilling with the cold breeze and is flocked by couples especially honeymooners. The whole place is blessed, romantic and a tranquilizer in itself, quite different from summers.
Expected Lowest Temperature: 0 to -2degree Celsius
What to do: Visit Bhagsu Waterfall, climb to Shiva Cafe, roam around the local colorful market, Buy local wood and metal artwork, enjoy Tibetan food
Difficulties you may face: Traffic jams, Parking problem, water shortage, extreme cold
Dalhousie- Khajjiar
Dalhousie, a quiet colonial Hill station is named after British General Lord Dalhousie. It is a tourist destination throughout all seasons but in winters during January and February snowfall adds an extra charm and cream to its picturesque landscapes. The white sheet makes the combination of white and green nature more enchanting and beautiful.
Source – www.traveltriangle.com
The Khajjiar town lies 21 km from Dalhousie and is known as Switzerland of India. In winters its huge green meadows get covered with snow sheets and pine trees in backdrop look so poetic and it is like a dream come true.
Expected Lowest Temperature: 0 to -7 degree Celsius
What to do: Visit potato field, Dainkund Peak, Bakrota Hills, leisure walk at Cantonment area and Tibetan market, click pictures of snow clad mountains, and shop at Gandhi chowk
Difficulties you may face: Roadblocks and traffic jams, power cuts, carry extra clothing and take precautions for elderly and children
Source – www.holidfy.com
Word of Caution while traveling to see snowfall in Himachal
Pack well with enough of clothes, gloves, caps, food, and medication. Carry an extra blanket for an emergency
If you are snowbound, stay in your vehicle. It will be easy for locals to locate you and don’t walk out in snow storm
Drive slowly. Accelerating, stopping, turning all takes time on snow covered roads as compared to dry roads
Make sure your vehicle and its tires are in peak operating condition
Keep your gasoline tanks at least half full
Clear snow from windows and lights and check your vehicle’s exhaust pipe is never clogged with snow or ice
If your vehicle gets stuck, don’t overexert to dig it out from snow. Tie a colored cloth to the antenna to make your vehicle visible to rescuers
Apply brakes carefully. As there are more chances of vehicle slipping during snowfall in Himachal
Keep fog lights on and maintain some distance from the vehicles moving ahead of you
Equip your vehicle with basic winter driving equipment like small shovel, tow chain, jumper cables etc when traveling to see snowfall in Himachal
Always keep locals no and your cell phone handy, to call in distress situation
Check the weather forecast before leaving if you don’t want to be struck
Most important is – Don’t panic if you are struck. Calm down and think how to handle the situation.
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